Development and stability evaluation of an exfoliating phytocosmetic based on Moringa oleifera, Orbignya phalerata, Psidium guajava and Apis mellifera

Abstract

This study aimed to formulate and evaluate the stability of a sustainable exfoliating phytocosmetic using moringa oil (Moringa oleifera), babassu coconut oil (Orbignya phalerata), guava seed powder (Psidium guajava), and bee honey (Apis mellifera). The research focused on developing an environmentally friendly product that values natural raw materials while minimizing environmental impact. The methodology included obtaining raw materials through procedures simulating artisanal extraction techniques, such as oil extraction and the production of exfoliating powders. Four formulations were developed: two honeybased formulations suitable for artisanal production and two Natrosol-based formulations intended for the cosmetics industry. Stability tests were performed over 30 days under three storage conditions: room temperature (25 ± 2 °C), refrigeration (5 ± 2 °C), and incubator (40 ± 2 °C). Analyses included pH, density, organoleptic characteristics, moisture content, and centrifugation. Results indicated that the honey-based formulations exhibited greater stability across all parameters, while the Natrosol-based formulations showed instability – particularly at high temperatures – with phase separation and organoleptic alterations. The pH of all formulations remained within the acceptable range for human skin, supporting their suitability for dermatological application. In conclusion, the objective was partially achieved, resulting in a sustainable and artisanally replicable exfoliant that values regional natural resources. However, improvements are required to enable industrial-scale production of the Natrosolbased formulations.